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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:10 pm 
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Ripped off the old crappy asphalt singles and did an Ice House roof (R54+ now!) and metal over top. Honestly, despite my advancing age I would NEVER do anything but metal again. Anywhere.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 9:15 pm 
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cottagelifer wrote:
Ripped off the old crappy asphalt singles and did an Ice House roof (R54+ now!) and metal over top. Honestly, despite my advancing age I would NEVER do anything but metal again. Anywhere.


I will do metal next time, if I am still alive,,, :fblike: :fblike: :fblike: :fblike: :fblike:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 11:15 am 
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On a recent trip through the Rockies I got to see several metal roofs. One option for me would be to do two layers about 8' long overlapping half way up the slope instead of full length (about 15') panels.

My reasoning?

Easier to transport to an island on a boat and (apparently) easier to handle in the inevitable wind that will be blowing during installation.

Only real question I'd have would be how to finish the fascia. My existing roof has drip edge and aluminum fascia panels and I would probably do 1 x 4 strapping over the existing shingles before installing the metal sheets.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 5:01 pm 
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Location: Lake Huron
I kind of wish this roofing stuff had been put in a separate thread from the flooring one. When I need the info, I won't be able to find it! :)

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 6:12 pm 
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Threads often veer off in odd directions whether here or elsewhere. However, we need all the activity we can get here and if floors turn into roofs, so be it.
It still amazes me how much activity was on the forum when cottage life magazine hosted it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 11:52 pm 
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706jim wrote:
On a recent trip through the Rockies I got to see several metal roofs. One option for me would be to do two layers about 8' long overlapping half way up the slope instead of full length (about 15') panels.

My reasoning?

Easier to transport to an island on a boat and (apparently) easier to handle in the inevitable wind that will be blowing during installation.

Only real question I'd have would be how to finish the fascia. My existing roof has drip edge and aluminum fascia panels and I would probably do 1 x 4 strapping over the existing shingles before installing the metal sheets.


Easier to transport - sure. But then you have a seam in the middle of the roof which kinda defeats the purpose IMO. Long panels are no big deal since you typically slide them up, not lift them.

I would not leave the existing shingles in place if it was me. And use a J-trim or drip edge over the fascia. Easy-peasy.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 6:37 pm 
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Location: Muldrew Lake, Gravenhurst ON
When our floor was insulated we went with the 21/2 inch Styrofoam sheets cut to size and held in by wood lathe. We then filled any pipe holes with expandable foam. The system has worked great and the floors are quite warm. I would say they are not as warm as a sprayed in solution but it is easier and cheaper.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:33 pm 
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I’m gonna price out the rigid foam.....it has any where from an R5 to R10 rating and is critter proof.....no mesh or plywood covering too, and will take the edge off the cold on the floor....thanks for all th ideas


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 10:08 pm 
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Maggieslanding wrote:
I’m gonna price out the rigid foam.....it has any where from an R5 to R10 rating and is critter proof.....no mesh or plywood covering too, and will take the edge off the cold on the floor....thanks for all th ideas


There will be some thermal bridging along the floor joists.
Also, all cracks where air can pass must be sealed ( i guess with canned spray foam).

Does anyone know of the humidity and condensation problems created by
this type of foam set up in the floor joists and sheathing ??

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 11:40 pm 
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Use hardware cloth rather than chicken wire. Mice can't get through and too tough to chew.

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